Understanding Paper: Weights, Tooth & Surface
When you start a new creative project, it is easy to be distracted by choosing paints, inks, or pencils... But ask any experienced maker, and they will tell you that the paper you choose plays just as big a role in your final piece.
Whether you are laying down a delicate watercolour wash, practicing calligraphy, or sketching out a design, understanding the language of paper can transform your experience.
Here is our friendly, stress-free guide to unravelling the terminology on paper labels so you can always pick the perfect sheet for your project.
Weight: GSM vs. Pounds (Lbs)
If you have ever wondered what 300gsm or 140lb actually means on a pad of paper, it is simply a measure of its weight and thickness:
GSM (Grams per Square Metre): This measures how much a one-metre-square sheet of that paper weighs. The higher the number, the thicker and sturdier the sheet.
Lbs (Pounds): The traditional imperial system, calculated by weighing a ream (500 sheets) of paper in its standard uncut size.
Common Weights & What They Are Best For:
Lightweight (90gsm – 150gsm / 60lb): Great for quick sketching, journalling, dry drawing mediums, or practice notes. Water or wet inks will cause this weight to buckle or cockle.
Medium Weight (200gsm – 250gsm / 90lb – 115lb): Sturdy enough for light washes, gouache, mixed media experiments, and pen & ink, though heavy water application may still require taping down.
Heavyweight (300gsm / 140lb): The standard 'sweet spot' for watercolour and wet media. It absorbs plenty of water, holds pigments beautifully, and resists warping.
Extra Heavy (400gsm – 640gsm / 200lb – 300lb): Feels almost like cardboard or wooden board. You can paint onto this with heavy washes without needing to stretch the paper first.
Texture: Hot Pressed, Cold Pressed & Rough
The surface finish—often called the 'tooth'—determines how paint flows, how ink is absorbed, and how much texture shows through your work.
Hot Pressed (HP / Smooth):
How it’s made: Pressed between heated metal rollers during manufacturing to create a silky, smooth finish.
Best for: Fine detailed work, botanical illustration, calligraphy, pen and ink, and smooth graphic washes. Paint stays on the surface a bit longer, giving you crisp edges.
Cold Pressed (NOT / Medium Texture):
How it’s made: Pressed through cold rollers, leaving a gentle, versatile texture (hence "NOT" hot pressed).
Best for: The standard choice for watercolourists, printmakers, and mixed media artists. The soft tooth holds paint effortlessly and allows for beautiful dry-brush effects.
Rough:
How it’s made: Allowed to dry naturally without heavy rolling, resulting in a pronounced, bumpy surface.
Best for: Expressive landscapes, loose painterly styles, and bold textures. Paint settles into the valleys of the paper while skipping over the high points, creating automatic sparkle and atmosphere.
Material: Cotton vs. Wood Pulp
Not all paper fibres are created equal!
100% Cotton (Rag Paper): Made from cotton fibres, this is the gold standard for archival fine art. It absorbs water evenly, can withstand heavy scrubbing or lifting out of colour, and won't turn yellow or brittle over time.
Wood Pulp (Cellulose / Student Grade): Made from processed wood fibres. It is much more economical and wonderful for warm-ups, colour studies, and workshop exercises, though it reacts to water a bit more quickly than cotton.
Task for the Week
If you have offcuts or scrap pieces of different papers lying around your studio, try them out side-by-side. Paint a stroke of watercolour, draw a line of ink, and apply a dab of wet gouache across the different surfaces in one go. It is a wonderful, visual way to see how paper completely changes the behaviour of your favorite tools!
What is your favourite paper to work on in the studio? Do you prefer the silky smooth finish of Hot Pressed or the tactile feel of Cold Pressed? Let us know in the comments below!
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